Sunday, November 28, 2010

Paris, Continued

For those of you who don't know: I didn't get the best impression of Paris the first time I visited. All I can remember is being horribly jet-lagged and bloody cold to boot. We were only there for a day so all we did was the arbitrary trip to the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower.

However this week I've managed to both avoid much of the standard touristy activity and rid myself of any negative feelings towards Paris and the Parisians. They are, contrary to popular belief, a wonderful and generous bunch of people. The number of people who willingly sat through my horribly garbled French without complaint was excellent. The best experience was visiting Chartier, a classic joint where, to quote one review, 'The food is ordinary. The service is brisk and not always friendly -- and you will be asked to leave when you are through.' 


However this is not a bad thing! The place is efficient and best of all very sociable. You are seated wherever there is space, which meant for me a seat across from an ex-cabbie who knew Paris like the back of his hand but didn't know any English. This was fantastic!  I managed to labour through two hours of conversation with him in French (and in laypersons sign language). True to the French tradition we drank a bottle of wine and when we ordered a coffee at the end he also got a small apératif which he mixed with our coffees, leaving me to wander off feeling rather light-headed



This is another interesting restaurant I found just behind the jardin du luximberg. It's called 'Kiwi Corner' and although I didn't get to go in (like many restaurants in Paris it was closed on Mondays) it certainly looks like an interesting one. I hope to give it a proper visit some time next year.



I also visited several parks this week. Parc de la Villette is still a topic of some debate within the Landscape Architectural community. Some people say that this is because it was designed by an Architect, not a Landscape Architect. I found that in person the park did have certain merits. It was very difficult to just breeze through, you were almost forced to experience the majority of the parks design elements. However this also seems to have lead to less use by people who don't have time for a full scale tour. It was, in fact, almost completely unoccupied. Just a few teenagers in the more private corners of the follies doing what they could with the weekend. However there where a few cyclists too, and here you can see them mucking about between my favourite part of the whole park...  The giant pieces of bicycle (which are part of an art instillation as opposed to a part of Tschumi's design).

Also visited, though I didn't take pictures, was parc Clichy Batignolles by my future studio coordinator at ENSNP. This was an excellent combination of leisure, 'WSUD' and planting. It walking through this space seemed like much less of a chore than Villette. It made use of rail-tracks, highlighting the sites SNFC history. I do have some issues with the skatepark, but I think these come down to the way its been built rather than the design intent itself.

At the moment I don't have access to a scanner, but when I do I'll add some pictures of drawings taken at Clinchy to this post.

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